Joining and Cutting Artificial Grass

Plan the seam position

Decide where the seam will fall before you cut. Avoid placing a seam directly beneath a path or a heavily used area — wear shortens the life of the join.

Where possible, position the seam along a straight edge feature (wall, paving edge, hedge) — this creates a natural visual break and the seam disappears.

Pile direction is critical

Every piece on the area MUST have the pile running in the same direction — otherwise the seam will show clearly as a directional change.

Do a quick test: stroke your hand across the fibres — in one direction they feel soft, in the other they feel blunt. Mark the "soft" direction with tape on the backing before you cut.

Cut away the factory selvedge

Both pieces to be joined have a factory selvedge — approximately 5–10 mm of backing with no fibres. This MUST be cut away from both pieces before joining.

Use a sharp craft knife and a metal straightedge. Cut with one deliberate stroke — not sawing movements, which fray the edge.

Cut along the backing rows

The correct cutting technique: turn the artificial grass face-down, locate the tuft row and cut exactly along it using a knife and straightedge.

Never cut across the fibres — this leaves blunt, visible fibre ends.

Tip: use a 45-degree angle on corners, and ensure both pieces meeting at the seam are cut from the same side of a tuft row.

Joining tape: width and placement

Use joining tape at least 150 mm wide. Narrower tape gives an insufficient gluing surface.

Centre the tape beneath the seam edge, adhesive side up (or use a separate adhesive type depending on the product — see below).

Adhesive: application and open time

Contact adhesive for artificial grass: apply to the tape and to the underside of the backing on both pieces. Allow to become touch-dry (approximately 5–10 minutes) — no longer. Too long an open time produces a poor bond.

Bring the pieces together along the seam centreline — close from one end and press down towards the other. Avoid air bubbles.

Pressing and curing

Press the seam down with a heavy roller (15–25 kg) along its entire length. The more pressure, the better the bond.

Allow to cure for a minimum of 30 minutes — ideally 2–4 hours before the area is used.

Combing: give the seam the finishing touch

Brush firmly across the seam — in both directions. The fibres need to fill the small gap that can appear along the seam line.

Stand back and look along the seam: is it visible, is the pile direction correct, and is the pile standing upright? If not — repeat the brushing.